Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829
10th October 1829 - Chur
[Saturday, 10th October – Gloomy day – healthy awakening and feeling cheerful – preferred to walk – the Heinzenberg [Ridge], the most beautiful in the world, as the Duke of Rohan (4) called it, which is not a lie – the uniquely beautiful, free Domleschg Valley (1) – herds on the poetic mountains – villages – castles – ruins and the [River] Rhine – friendly Swiss villages – the sun coming through here and there – terrible path
– the shrouded Splügen [Pass] – the shrouded Piz Beverin [mountain] – all mountains covered in snow – the [River] Rhine continuing to be marshy – the mass of streams falling into it [the Rhine] – the white mountain castle – feeling cheerful – feeling hungry – lunch in Bonaduz with great appetite – the newspaper reader, neither seeing nor hearing, and accumulating incredibly high bills – leaving – the friendly [village of] Reichenau [Grisons] – the confluence of the two Rhine Rivers and payment for this from a “Plutzer/Blutzer” [= “clay jug”] to a “Mautner” [= “toll collector”] [?], where I really felt like an ox –
– repeatedly and cheerfully looking back at the mountains – a familiar forest footpath – blue innocent eyes in the sky – beautiful evening clouds – herds returning home – tower bells – a true “sun evening” [= Saturday] and my remark – herd bells ringing – the lit snowy mountains – people greeting each other – joy – melancholy – homesickness - view of Chur – a bit tired – arriving in Chur (3) – a German “vetturino [= “coachman”] – the worst possible inn (5) but also the cheapest possible – the rude innkeeper and my even more rude rudeness – going to bed – nosebleed in the night -]
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