Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

1st September 1829 – Berne and Lauterbrunnen

The Staubbach Falls near Lauterbrunnen
1. The Staubbach Falls near Lauterbrunnen

[Tuesday, 1st September – parting from Gruner – beautiful sky – to the stagecoach station – return to Thun by stagecoach – the new guide Bohrer from Grindelwald – cabriolet – life on the country road – national costume and smiles – the mountains as clear as Gods – the Jungfrau [mountain] – the Dutch merchant Queck from Amsterdam, very limited, with a semblance of hypocrisy and good-naturedness – inexpensive breakfast [in original: “déjeuner”, probably used in its Swiss French meaning] in Thun – left by postal boat for Neuhaus – dog company – passable weather – boring shores – the Niesen and the Stockhorn [mountains] – sleep – the Englishwoman with glasses and collapsed ideals – by trap [in original: “charpent”, probably Swiss French] with Queck to Lauterbrunnen – sky-high valley – the girls in Grindelwald – waterfalls – first true feeling of “Do you know the land and its clouded path [after Goethe]”- first view of the Staubbach [Falls] (1), very gratifying – poor village – arriving at the [Steinbock] Hotel (2) – dinner [in original: “souper”, probably used in its Swiss French meaning] at 16:00 – Count Ladislaus Platen and the silent Germans – walk into the valley – rainy weather – the Staubbach [Falls] in its accomplished beauty – endless sounds – young men are waterfalls – the good-natured and boring Dutchman – the Trimmelbach [= Trümmelbach Falls] (A) and the rocks – gloomy evening – great life à la Sturm [“Sturm und Drang” = proto-Romantic movement] at the Hotel – the sick guide and serious thoughts – starry sky and prosaic sleep -]

Bern bis Lauterbrunnen

2. Johann Jakob Leuthy, Hotel Steinbockin Lauterbrunnen: [This well-established old Hotel, excellent in every respect and well-known for its advantages, was rebuilt in 1825 by the owner at the time according to very appropriate planning and taking into consideration any amenities, and, due to its location in this alpine region, was given the name of “Hôtel du Capricorne”, which it has kept until today.]

A) Trimmelbach = Trümmelbach Falls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley

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