Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

5th September 1829 - Andermatt

Lake Tote(n)see (photograph, 2012)
1. Lake Tote(n)see (photograph, 2012)

[Saturday, 5th September – Hesitating between the Simplon and the Gotthard [Passes] – climbing the summit of the Grimsel [Pass] – beautiful cloudy sky – Lake Todtensee [sic] on the Grimsel [Pass] (1) – walk through snowfields – cordial Kersten – sure path by the precipice – the steep and very rustic Maienwand [rock face] (A) – the summit of the Finsteraarhorn [mountain] – deep valley and view of the [River] Rhône

Rhône Glacier, ca. 1800, engraving
2. Rhône Glacier, ca. 1800, engraving

– the white Rhône Glacier (2) – climbing down and the hole in my trousers between the legs – source of the Rhône and climbing the Furka [Pass] – low alder trees – group of Alpine hikers – Capuchins on pack horses – walkers with hiking sticks – waiting at the source and voluptuous scooping – very tiring climbing – the stone-seeking merchant – satires on pebbles – mineralogists – arriving at the Furka [Pass] – frugal lunch – the naughty, dunderheaded merchant – my silence and his feeling – moving on in silence – honest and good Scheuermann – climbing down the mountain into a beautiful valley – the peaks of the Furka [Pass] – stones rolling down – Realp – the Capuchins – trying to elude the merchant and him trying to follow me – first Italian wine – departure – beautiful evening – Kersten exploring – lieutenant Hermann and more frequent encounters with his vain rabble – the Munich student in a blue waggoner’s shirt – in the village – the [River] Reuss – Hospiz (3) [official name “Hospental”], decent village – its Italian-looking location – the stone cabinet of the dean at Hospiz – first view of the Gotthard axis and my longing – Andermatt from afar – first Italian sounds from the waggoner’s lips – arriving in Andermatt (4) – the immodest guide and my serious ultimatum – dinner – strong wine – Scheuermann tipsy – Hermann not far from that either – staying up late -]

The village of Hospental (Hospiz)
3. The village of Hospental (Hospiz)
Main square in Andermatt
4. Main square in Andermatt
A) Maienwand: rock face between Gletsch and the Grimsel Pass

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