Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

3rd September 1829 - Meiringen

The Grosse Scheidegg Pass
1. The Grosse Scheidegg Pass

[Thursday, 3rd September – Dreadful weather – the peaks of the shrouded Wetterhorn or Eiger [mountains] – treacherous path through the Grosse Scheidegg [Pass] (1) – enormous sea of fog – the falling avalanche and the merchant, backing off three steps – satirical remarks and the tired guide from Gründen – climbing the Scheidegg [Pass] – good chalet and delicate coffee – the countrymen, joining us – kirsch and happy mood – the merchant, drinking out of despair, and me ditto – staggering feet – the “Rohnlandsbad” (A) – waterfall – the injured merchant, a disgraced gymnast – doing gymnastics with sharp hiking sticks – kirsch – ravine – drums and the general field marshal in a blue shirt – staggering down the mountains and an overcast sky with shrouded eyes

Reichenbach Falls
2. Reichenbach Falls

– first fall of the Reichenbach [Falls] (2) and the second one for the merchant – my anger at the superabundance of waterfalls – the last and most beautiful fall of the Reichenbach – monstrous rain – running towards Meiringen – Meiringen (3) – terribly soaked – changing clothes and the slurring Amsterdammer – Hotel and the Jesuits – table d’hôte uninteresting – the begging Queck and my so-called naughtiness – staying up late with Hermann and Kersten, à la Leipzig habits – the most beautiful girl in Switzerland (4), an untruth – heavy sleep.]

Meiringen in the Hasli Valley
3. Meiringen in the Hasli Valley
Costumes in the Bernese Oberland
4. Costumes in the Bernese Oberland

Hotels in Meiringen:

Bären (J.J. Leuthy): [Stands out with its beautiful and cheerful location.]

Wilder Mann (Du Sauvage): [Undoubtedly one of the best hotels of the Bernese Oberland, or even of the whole Canton.]

A) Rohnlandsbad = Rosenlaui Baths

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