Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

9th October 1829 - Thusis

Andeer, watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler 1830
1. Andeer, watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler 1830

[Tusis [sic], 9th October – I have just risen from a coffin; the mountains were wearing their shrouds and my chest was oppressed; in the village of Andeer (1), I heard no voice and no people; everything was dead and the sky so bleak. I entered the inn at Kannes [?], but no one came towards me; I saw the curtains drawn and something moved quietly above me, like heavy steps; finally, someone appeared and followed me into the lounge – the innkeeper’s son came towards me, with tear-stained eyes – people looked at each other suspiciously and compassionately

Via Mala [or Viamala] pathway section
2. Via Mala [or Viamala] pathway section

– oh, I felt so gloomy and oppressed – then I really “enjoyed” something – the son showed me around the nice inn, quietly and silently – what happened? I asked – my father died this night – whoa! All of a sudden, the lounge was lying on top of me, heavy like a rock, and I could hardly breathe – I could not imagine anything more disgusting – so I took a coach – but the spirit of the deceased was like chasing after me – the mountains were full of clouds – everything gloomy – there were flurries of snow – only the horse whinnied from time to time – but the picture of this wilderness – there were rocks hanging over the street, tightly squeezed, touching each other with their foreheads – stones, like rolled over fir trees – rows of broken spruces – the sky, dead – the weather, terrible – the tearing whirlwind – crevices – waterfalls – plunging waves – and down there, the [River] Rhine, winding through a foot-wide gap – and, on top of all that, the night and the drifting damp fogs – and then the deadly terror of the chasing driver

Via Mala [or Viamala], watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler
3. Via Mala [or Viamala], watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler

– more precipices (2/3) all around – in front of me, sky-high rocks, to be climbed – away, away! – finally, I came out and am here now, like in a spring, again inside myself and with all those good people – then I saw again the wide [River] Rhine in front of me, at a mountain – calm down, you disturbed Alpine nature! Well, man only rarely likes to see his own image. - - -]

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