Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

10th October 1829 – Splügen [village and Pass] and Thusis

[Chur, 10th October.

A beautiful day, as pure as an angel, although gloomy down here and up there. My good Germany, have I found you again? And do not all people greet me already? Robert was right. On Saturday evening, people are much more friendly and cordial than on other evenings and days, he said, and I nodded ---

Splügen, watercolour by Bleuler
1. Splügen, watercolour by Bleuler

Friday, 9th October – terrible cold on the Splügen [Pass] – leaving – the begging guide – snow day – everything white – snow flurries – tiring climbing to the summit of the Splügen [Pass] – wading through snow – the slab on the Splüten [Pass] and farewell to Italy – seeing the sources of the Rhine and longing for Germany – the Rhine brook – six-feet-high snow – the village of Splügen (1)

Via Mala Bridge, by Bleuler
2. Via Mala Bridge, by Bleuler

– lunch – dismissing the guide (evening) – terrible hike down the Splügen [Pass] – Andeer --- [vide previous page] – Via Mala [gorge] (2) – deadly terror – arriving in Thusis – the good coachman – feeling fresh and alive – like at home at Hotel Zum Goldenen Adler (3) – a relative of the deceased - sleeping in a good bed --]

Hotel Zum Goldenen Adler
3. Hotel Zum Goldenen Adler

J.J. Leuthy: [This hotel, almost newly built and tastefully designed, is located in the most beautiful and lively square of this market town. There, travellers can also find comfortably equipped coaches and good horses for the continuation of their journey.]

Chur (watercolour of 1830)
Chur (watercolour of 1830)

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