Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

11th October 1829 - Feldkirch

Maienfeld with Church and Castle, ca. 1930
1. Maienfeld with Church and Castle, ca. 1930

[Sunday, 11th October – blue stripes in the sky here and there – later on, the whole sky white blue – monotonous and odious – letter to Carl – the inexpensive bill – the coachman, a truly crushed bug or crab louse – was everyone’s friend – junk dealer, horse trader, student of surgery in Jena, money changer, smuggler, ruffian, churl, hackney coachman, but everyone’s good and, I think, loyal friend – four thalers up to Lindau – good cigars – good talk with him – appetite and lunch in Maienfeld (1), where you can see the last gate from the first – sad jerkwater towns – the coachman’s highly amusing story about the theatre and the slap he received – laughing and very amusing effect – farewell to Switzerland and the Austrian border – joy to be on German soil again – German faces and the large dragoon caps – arriving in Feldkirch, a friendly small town – together at the inn à la Demmrich [?] – going to the baker’s – good wine – good grand piano – the girl – her delight – “No, I will not sing” – she did sing – parting from her and shaking hands – dinner with the landlord and the landlady at the table – good sleep

Lindau, engraving, 1830
2. Lindau, engraving, 1830

Monday, 12th October – departure from Feldkirch at 06:00 – freezing cold – the sun and the Alps kissed by it – beautiful, magnificent view – morning sky – farewell to the Alps – sulphur bath in Hohenems with the sign “[Bath and Hotel Zum Schwebel]” – Mr Matthes leaving – his story about the Jewish women and my fancies – Bregenz – bad inn and good wine and request for my passport – big Lake Constance – its waves and recollection of you, Count Sarntheim! – my favourite lake – Lindau (2), a small Venice and reminding of the sea – walking along the Lake – arriving in Lindau – Lindau – a true German town like Zwickau – nothing – feverish heat – good hotel – sleep and countryman Oschatz from Schönheide – lonely walk by the Lake and through the town where all people greet each other – reading “[The Travelling Devil”]* and the [Swiss daily newspaper] Der Landbote, and also the Calendar – dinner – the Swiss girls and my rustic neighbour – nothing --- terrible night – but sound sleep]

*Der reisende Teufel. Eine gemeinnützige und satyrische Unterhaltungsschrift [The Travelling Devil. A Satirical Entertainment Magazine Serving the Public Good] (Negle, Munich, 1828/32)

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